• 29" wheeled enduro bike
  • 150mm rear travel
  • 160mm fork
Cotic : RocketMAX : 29er Enduro Full Suspension Mountain Bike : Reynolds 853 Steel : 160mm Travel : droplink : Made In Britain

The Cotic RocketMAX is our big wheel, blazingly quick, 29er steel full suspension enduro bike

The fastest bike in our fleet. The radical, UK made RocketMAX turns the speed up to 11. It's all about the rockiest descents and the steepest technical trails. It's confident and blisteringly quick.

RocketMAX will carry speed through lines you've battled to get through before, and will do so with composure and ease thanks to it's Reynolds 853 steel frame, leaving a big grin on your face. You like steep and techincal? You can ride down pretty much anything on a RocketMAX, then pedal back up buzzing on how great your ride is. Incredible stability and pinpoint precision brings you swaggering confidence regardless of the gradient.

RocketMAX is wild and fast and just so much fun. It's almost like cheating!


Read BikeRadar's 4.5/5 review of the RocketMAX Gold Eagle bike:

"MAX speed and confidence"

"....the RocketMAX isn’t just the best bike Cotic has made, it’s one of the best anyone has made"

Click Here to read the full review

Rear BikePerfect's 4.5/5 review of the RocketMAX Gold Eagle bike:

" enduro tank that stays utterly calm and confident well beyond our test team's normal panic points and takes up position as one of the fastest gravity bikes we've ridden - regardless of material or origin"

"If you want a bike that delivers all the damping and shock shrugging advantages of steel, while retaining a warm sense of spring but never twanging too far off line then it's fantastic"

Click here to read the full review

Want to learn more about the awesome RocketMAX?

Click on the tabs below...

Cotic frames are designed, developed, engineered and tested entirely by us at our base in the Peak District, near Sheffield in the UK. Our founder - Cy Turner - is the lead designer and engineer, and our frames are rigorously ride tested by everyone at Cotic and chosen test riders and ambassadors. They are fully certified and lab tested in excess of the requirements of ISO4210 safety standards.

For this frame the majority of the production process happens right here in the UK. The skilled guys at Five Land Bikes in Scotland manufacture the Reynolds 853 front triangle in small batches, to their exacting standards. This is married to our proven rear ends from our excellent suppliers in Taiwan, as found across our droplink range. Much of the remaining machined parts are made for us by Unite Components and Bear Frame Supplies.

All the major parts of the frame are dip coated in manganese phosphate to prevent corrosion, before being painted using tough and durable automotive spec paint by the Five Land guys. After they have completed their painstaking hand finishing process and their rigorous QC, the frame parts undergo further checking by us before assembly at our HQ in the Peak District.

As a final added extra, all our made in Britain frames are Datatag'd from the factory. You will receive all your Datatag documents with your frame or bike when it's delivered.

As always, all complete bikes are built to order by us here at Cotic, to the exact spec of your choice. We build your bike for you.

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Cotic Longshot Geometry, Longshot geometry, progressive geometry, mountain biking, enduro mountain biking, trail riding, mountain bike, full suspension mountain bike, 29er, 29 inch wheels, 27.5 inch wheels

Radical Longshot geometry keeps the bike stable through the rough stuff, planted in the corners and pinpoint accurate in the steep tech. Couple a super short 35mm stem to the optimised head angle and the bike really pushes you on, looking for every stump to boost off, rock to gap and berm to rail, keeping you connected to the trail while maintaining incredible poise and composure.

Reynolds 853

Reynolds 853 builds a light, lively and fantastically robust front end, and includes our custom ride tuned Ovalform top tube which helps to deliver that famous ride feel. The frames' steel construction is compliant and naturally ground moulding, extracting grip and feedback from the trail where you thought there was none.

If you want to learn more about the RocketMAX UK Made and finished construction, click here to read the Singletrack feature all about it...


Cotic MAX frames use 29 inch wheels. MAXimum speed, MAXimum rollover.

29inch wheels roll easy and give a lot of stability, confidence and speed in rougher terrain, at the expense of being a little heavier and less playful than regular 27.5" wheels.

Why Big Wheels?

The way the MAX frames are packaged around the larger wheels (longer rear end, longer wheelbase, taller front end) can suit the proportions of a taller rider better, this will minimise any potential drawbacks, as a taller rider tends to have long enough arms and legs to move the bike around easily. Whatever height you are, if you're after more speed and stability from a bike, then the big wheels are the way to go.

Cotic Droplink suspension is supportive and progressive, keeping the 150mm travel RocketMAX feeling lively and interactive, with grip to spare on the descents, support and traction on the climbs.

We Build Your Bike For You

All Cotic bikes are assembled in the UK from and frame up. We have set specifications, but these are just the start. Want the Silver spec bike with tubeless tyres? Easy! Want a big can air shock on your RocketMAX instead of the inline? It's there too. Full colour matched Hope parts, and add the matching brakes too? It's a click away, and everything else in between. If it's not a choice on the order form, just ask.

When you contact us you are talking to the people who design the frames and will be building your bike. We check it and build and pack it in our award winning bike boxes with the same care we would our own bike, because we know how important it is. We build your bike, for you.

Click here for the full bike specs...

Order your dream bike today...

Is the RocketMAX the bike for you?

If you like the idea of an enduro bike from Cotic, but with the lighter, livelier ride of the smaller 27.5" wheels, you need our Rocket.

Like your wheels big, but more of an all rounder? A little more responsive and shorter travel? You need the FlareMAX.

Maybe you're more a hardtail rider, but like the speed and security of the RocketMAX with 29er or 275 Plus wheels? Have a look at the SolarisMAX.

  • Radical Cotic Longshot geometry is specifically designed for super short 35mm stems, giving incredible steering responsiveness combined with hugely confidence inspiring capability at speed.
  • Reynolds 853 Ovalform and DZB tubed front end brings precision, beautiful ride feel, durability and strength
  • 44mm standard head tube designed with external bottom cup for taper steerer compatiblity and zero stack top cup for minimal stack height
  • Custom Cotic designed 35mm Reynolds 853 seat tube for super stiff support for the main suspension pivots
  • 31.6mm seatpost size is dropper seatpost compatible. Internal 'Stealth' dropper post remote routing
  • ISCG05 mounts on regular threaded bottom bracket bring drivetrain security and reliability
  • Rear mech cable routed internally through the steel seatstay for clean lines and low noise
  • Dedicated 1x drivetrain design - maximum width swingarm pivot, low drop, forged construction swingarm heads with integrated One Up Components award winning Top Guide
  • 6066-T6 aluminium swingarm with Syntace X-12 BOOST148 x 12 rear axle for maximum wheel stiffness on larger wheels.
  • 15mm pivots for BB and droplink thru axle style linkage clamp keep the frame solid front to rear
  • 1 bottle mount
  • Clearance for big tyres - 29 x 2.5" or 27.5 x 3.0" PLUS tyres
  • Optimised around 160mm forks for great balance of speed and precision.
  • 150mm of Cotic droplink suspension brings traction, fun and interaction via a strong progression rate
  • Sizes - NEW Small (390mm), Medium (425mm), Large (460mm) or XL (495mm)

The chart is a guide to frame size. Longshot Geometry means that the frames are low and long, with plenty of standover room. We recommend going for the size suggested for your height on the chart, and getting all the benefits of running a super short and responsive 30-35mm stem. It's a game changer. Make sure you consider your leg length as well. If you upsize you might not be able to fit a longer dropper post due to the collar hitting the seat tube top or the dropper post bottoming out on the seat tube droplink pivot. If you are unsure about that or anything else, drop us a line at and we'll be happy to discuss set up based on what you're riding at the moment and what seatpost you are planning to use.

160mm travel forks

Frame Size Small Medium Large XL
Seat Tube (centre-top) 390mm 425mm 460mm 495mm
Top Tube Length (Effective) 604mm 631mm 657mm 686mm
Head Angle 63.5° 63.5° 63.5° 63.5°
Seat Angle 75.3° 75.3° 75.3° 75.3°
Chainstay Length 448.2mm 448.2mm 448.2mm 448.2mm
BB Drop -27mm -27mm -27mm -27mm
Head Tube Length 100mm 110mm 120mm 130mm
Reach 443.0mm 467.0mm 490.0mm 515.0mm
Stack 620.4mm 629.3mm 638.3mm 647.2mm
Wheelbase 1234.3mm 1262.3mm 1290.3mm 1319.3mm
Usual Height Range 165cm - 172cm 169cm - 180cm 178cm - 188cm 186cm - 195cm
Stem Length 25-45mm 25-45mm 25-45mm 25-45mm
Frame Wheel Travel 150mm 150mm 150mm 150mm
Wheel Size 29" or 650B+
(275 PLUS)
29" or 650B+
(275 PLUS)
29" or 650B+
(275 PLUS)
29" or 650B+
(275 PLUS)
Max Tyre Size 29 x 2.5" / 27.5 x 2.8" 29 x 2.5" / 27.5 x 2.8" 29 x 2.5" / 27.5 x 2.8" 29 x 2.5" / 27.5 x 2.8"
Maximum Seatpost Insertion (including actuator mechanism) 164mm 199mm 235mm 270mm
All measurements are static based on 160mm travel fork/571mm static length. Seatpost Maximum insertion is guidance based on leaving 25mm clear below the actuator for any hose or cable to route through our frames. Your post may need less, or more, or if you use an externally routed dropper you won't need this margin at all.

6 ¼" travel forks

Frame Size Small Medium Large XL
Seat Tube (centre-top) 15.35” 16.7” 18.1” 19.5”
Top Tube Length (Effective) 23.75” 24.85” 25.85” 27.05”
Head Angle 63.5° 63.5° 63.5° 63.5°
Seat Angle 75.3° 75.3° 75.3° 75.3°
Chainstay Length 17.7” 17.7” 17.7” 17.7”
BB Drop -1.06" -1.06" -1.06" -1.06"
Head Tube Length 3.9” 4.3” 4.7” 5.1”
Reach 17.5" 18.4" 19.3" 20.3"
Stack 24.4" 24.8" 25.2" 25.5"
Wheelbase 48.6" 49.6" 50.8" 51.9"
Usual Height Range 5ft 5in - 5ft 8in 5ft 7in - 5ft 11in 5ft 10in - 6ft 2in 6ft 0in - 6ft 5in
Stem Length 25-45mm 25-45mm 25-45mm 25-45mm
Frame Wheel Travel 5.9" 5.9" 5.9" 5.9"
Wheel Size 29" or 650B+
(275 PLUS)
29" or 650B+
(275 PLUS)
29" or 650B+
(275 PLUS)
29" or 650B+
(275 PLUS)
Max Tyre Size 29 x 2.5" / 27.5 x 2.8" 29 x 2.5" / 27.5 x 2.8" 29 x 2.5" / 27.5 x 2.8" 29 x 2.5" / 27.5 x 2.8"
Maximum Seatpost Insertion (including actuator mechanism) 164mm 199mm 235mm 270mm
All measurements are static based on 160mm/6.3" travel fork/571mm static length. Seatpost Maximum insertion is guidance based on leaving 25mm clear below the actuator for any hose or cable to route through our frames. Your post may need less, or more, or if you use an externally routed dropper you won't need this margin at all.

How To Set Up Your Cotic RocketMAX Gen2


The suspension on your Cotic droplink bike is designed to work at it’s best when the suspension ‘sags’ with the rider on board the bike. 'Sag' is the amount the shock compresses with a rider on board. The suspension works at its best when set with between 25% and 30% of the available travel as sag, with our preferred starting point being 30%.

Your RocketMAX has a 57mm stroke shock and runs 160mm forks, so that means:

  • 15-17mm sag on the shock
  • 32-40mm sag on a 160mm fork

As a starting point we suggest going for the middle of those options, so 16mm sag rear, and 36mm sag front.


How To Set Your Shock Sag

Using a shock pump, put 170psi in the rear shock. Leave your forks as they are (if you've already set them up) or put the recommended pressure for your weight in them according to the fork manufacturer's manual.

Check the shock and turn off any lockout or Climb Switch. This allows the shock to compress unhindered and ensures a more accurate sag measurement.

Put your riding kit on. Or at least a fully loaded backpack if you usually ride with one. Make particular note of the amount of water in your pack or your bottles. It's probably the heaviest thing you strap to your bike after yourself, and it makes a difference to the suspension setup.

Set the saddle to your correct full pedalling height.

Mount the bike and go for a quick ride in a suitably quiet area. Whilst riding, bounce on the saddle a couple of times to get the rear shock compressing as much as you can.

Pull in somewhere safe, stop, get off the bike and slide the o-ring on the shock down against the seal. Now get back on the bike and with saddle at full height sit down and let your legs dangle off the pedals and make sure the o-ring on the shock is still up against the seal. Now, gently get off the bike without moving the shock (dropping the saddle and using a kerb or something as step helps).

Once off the bike, measure the distance between the o-ring and the shock body. Adjust the air pressure in the shock accordingly to get the desired amount of sag.

How To Set Your Fork Sag

Once you’ve set the rear sag, check the front fork sag. If your bike is brand new, put 60psi in the fork to start with and dial all the compression damping adjuster to minimum. For forks, we recommend running with 20-25% sag.

In a quiet area with minimal traffic, drop the saddle and ride around slowly, giving the forks a bounce once or twice to free them up. Whilst rolling along, sit down and – being careful of the spinning wheel - slide the o-ring on the fork leg down to the seal. Now stand up slowly into a balance position on the bike as if you're about to do a downhill section of trail. Now, without moving the fork any more, move yourself rearward and sit down, and slowly roll to a halt. If you have to use the brake, use it very gently and carefully so that you don't dive the fork under braking and mess up your sag measurement. Gently get off the bike and measure the distance from the o-ring to the fork seal. That is your sag. For a 160mm fork, you should be aiming for around 32-40mm sag (20-25%).

If the fork sag requires alteration, alter it, then check the rear sag again. Keep doing this procedure until both front and rear sag is set as desired by the rider, within the manufacturer recommendations for the frame and fork.

Weight Distribution

It’s worth noting that as the weight distribution of all bikes is different, being dependent on saddle position, stem length and bar width amongst many other things. It’s quite possible that with the correct sag at the rear of the bike, your forks may end up with too much or too little sag because there’s more or less weight on them compared to your previous bike. This is why we don't recommend any particular pressures, because even quite subtle differences in your saddle/cockpit set up compared to anything we measure will result in different pressures being required for a given level of sag. We always recommend setting up using sag measurement as your guide, not a generic shock pressure.

How To Set Damping - Shock

Once the front and rear sags are set, adjust the rebound and compression damping to your preference. If you have specified the Cane Creek DB Air IL, Coil IL or Air CS shock, then our base setup is on the shock when it was delivered. However, as time as gone by we have also developed the base tunes so it's worth a look below and see how these suit your riding.

These settings are listed below all relative to fully open position on the adjusters:

Cane Creek DB Air IL

  • 0 volume spacers
  • 0 Turns (i.e. fully open) HSC (High Speed Compression)
  • 4 Clicks LSC
  • 1.5 Turns HSR
  • 2 clicks LSR

Cane Creek DB Coil IL

  • 1.0 Turns HSC (High Speed Compression)
  • 5 Clicks LSC
  • 1.5 Turns HSR
  • 2 clicks LSR
  • Spring weight - if you have picked up a used RocketMAX Gen2 and have a coil shock, please contact us for advice on the spring rate you need. DO NOT keep adding preload beyond 2 turns. This will coil bind the spring at bottom out and potentially damage your frame.

Cane Creek DB Air CS Piggyback

  • 0 volume spacers
  • 0 Turns (i.e. fully open) HSC (High Speed Compression)
  • 4 Clicks LSC
  • 1.0 Turns HSR
  • 2 clicks LSR

Follow the excellent instructions in the Cane Creek Field Tuning Guide (click here to download) for fine tuning of your Cane Creek shock.

Cotic base settings tend to run on the lively and fast rebound side of things. This might feel quite different to what you were previously used to, but do stick with it for a couple of rides before making changes. Light rebound damping let's the rear wheel 'patter' and maintain traction better. The links to the base tune for your Cane Creek shock can be found above in the Component Sizes tab.

For other shock brands:


It is recommended to start with the rebound 3 clicks from fully open. As mentioned above, we believe that the fastest rebound you can run with safely is the best for traction and lively feel. If you feel like you’re being bounced out of the saddle on big compressions, or springing back too hard off drops, or the bike feels like it’s bouncing back at you at high speed on rocky sections, then add more rebound damping until this sensation is eliminated.

Compression / Pedal Platform

It is recommended to start with the compression damping/pedal platform switched off (or set to minimum). The Cotic Droplink suspension is designed not to require the assistance of a compression damping circuit to give good pedalling performance. Using the minimum setting allows the suspension to move under bump forces more easily and track the ground better.

How To Set Damping – Fork

As with the rear shocks, we recommend running the fork damping as light as possible for best traction.


Set this in the middle of the range and see how it feels matched up to the rear shock. As with the rear, try riding it faster than you ordinarily would. It's amazing what a difference it makes, and it's key to getting the most out of the fast acting rear shock, because it keeps the bike in balance.

Once you have done a couple of rides, if you feel the in higher speed bumpy trails the fork is kicking back too much for your liking, or too much that you lose confidence, then increase the rebound damping. If you find the middle setting OK, trying making it faster until you get to the point of it feeling sketchy, then go back one click.


Almost regardless of size, weight or style of riding, everyone at Cotic runs the high speed compression damping on their fork fully open, or very close to it. We recommend you start with fully open and go from there. If you find you are using the full travel a little too easily for your liking, we suggest adding volume reducers to your fork air spring rather than ramping up the damping.

For low speed compression damping, this is a balance between traction and helping keep the fork held up, so for this we recommend starting with it set in the middle of the range. If you are finding that the bike feels confidence inspiring, but it's a little uncomfortable or 'chattery' through your hands, try reducing the low speed compression 3 clicks. If you feel that the sag and air spring feel is what you want but you are getting a lot of diving under heavy braking, or in steep terrain, try adding 3 clicks. Keep refining like that until you are happy with the setup.

A Bit of Advice

One thing to avoid is setting the rebound based on the 'bounce in the street' test. This usually results in setting the rebound too slow for good grip in trail riding conditions, because doing the 'bounce test' with rebound set fast enough for good performance usually feels too fast in this unhelpful scenario. Only start adjusting once you have a feel on the trail.

Try It Out – The Only Way You'll Know Is By Going For A Ride

We recommend starting at 18mm shock sag and going for a couple of rides to see how this feels. This is a good middle ground for tackling the trails with an active, plush feel combined with a low bottom bracket height for confident handling.

If you feel that you’re catching your pedals too often, or the steering isn’t as fast as you’d like, or you're not getting the climbing position you want, then add more air to the shock and reduce the sag 1 or 2mm, or maybe drop the sag on your fork a few extra millimetres to move your weight forward.

It's well worth taking a couple of hours and doing laps of a trail you know well, and making changes one at a time. A good way to learn it to turn one damping dial fully closed, do a run, then go again with it fully open. You will learn what these big changes to damping do to the bike, which will help you make more subtle changes afterwards.

Take Some Notes Before Tweaking

With all the adjustments available on modern suspension it’s quite possible to get lost chasing a set up and ending up with a bike that doesn’t handle too well. So, if you’ve twiddled and tweaked and the handling just seems to be getting worse, go back to your base setup.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with your suspension settings and general bike setup (stem length, bar height, etc), but always have a base set up written down that you can go back to. This should include a fork travel (if the fork is adjustable) with air pressures for front suspension units. Note down how many clicks of rebound you're running. Same goes for compression damping if its adjustable on your fork.

As your experience grows, you’ll begin to know what certain adjustments do and how to undo them, but it’s a learning curve so keep your head and don’t be afraid to start from scratch.

We really think you could get more out of your bike by playing around with things a little. We're always happy to help if you want advice. Just drop us a line at

Our service doesn't stop when you order a frame. We want to help you enjoy your new bike to its full potential.

Seatpost diameter: 31.6mm (get 380mm long minimum)

Front Mech: Not applicable - 1x drivetrains only.

Fork: Minimum 150mm. Maximum 160mm travel, 573mm axle-crown (without sag)

Bottom Bracket width: 73mm

Bottom Bracket thread: Conventional English/BSA

Chainring: Single only, boost chainline

Chainguide Mounting: ISCG05 bottom 2 tabs. Integrated Cotic x OneUp Components Top Guide (included with frame or bike)

Headset: 44mm for Taper Steerer forks: Hope 2H, Cane Creek ZS44 Top/EC44 Bottom, Chris King Inset I7

Rear Hub: Boost148 x 12 bolt through

Rear Axle: Syntace X-12

Rear Mech Hanger: Syntace X-12 Type 1 (Conventional or Shimano Direct Mount)

Shock: 200 x 57

Shock Fittings: 15.75 x M8 Down Tube End, 24.0 x M8 Seatstay End

Dropper Post Routing: Stealth via the down tube

Rear Brake Mounting: I.S. Compatible with up to 203mm diameter rotors